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Post by Robert on Oct 26, 2007 23:16:09 GMT 8
taking cuttings of neps basals and stems,root them using different media and observe their rooting rate has always interest me. Some neps are rare and uncommon which makes sense to take cuttings and to increase rare plant in our collection. The following example was a red ampullaria basal. the cutting was taken on 07.07.2007. I use part perlite/sphagnum moss. fine roots were already formed when it was investigated on 24.08.2007 which means rooting must had been about 40 days. Rooting conditions were natural light ,no fertilizers, and no zip locked bag was used. Notice that the fine new roots appeared from the base of the basal and not from the branch root. Throughout the rooting period the growth point lie dormant and on 29.9.2007 ( date photo was taken ) the growth point unfurl into a new leaf. The dehydrated old leaves had all become firmer. Sometimes branch roots were more vigrous and whenever possible taking branch root does pay off. This was put into rooting on 03.09.2007 and rooted on 24.10.2007,about 50 days when roots were formed. small basal like the following can also be rooted. I investigate this one and rooting must had taken place quite sometime as the roots were already quite long. Different media, conditions,type of cutting-along the stem and the basal provide different rate of rooting. Rooting either under shade or in the open don't show much differences.
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Post by David on Oct 26, 2007 23:34:27 GMT 8
Hi Robert,
Great to hear from you again. In your opinion, which potting media give the fastest rate of rooting? Perhaps others on the forum can also share their experiences. I know some use pure perlite to root their cuttings, some place the cuttings in water, some in pure sophagnum moss, etc.
I also root my cuttings using sphagnum moss and perlite (1 part s. moss, 2 parts perlite), the media that all my neps grow in. Seems to be better than placing the cuttings in water for me. Percentage of failure when I root in water seems to be higher but I know a few growers in Singapore that have great success with rooting in water.
I realised taking a cutting from the stem somewhere at the middle of the plant give better results. When cuttings is at the base of the plant it is more difficult, maybe because the stem is harder and more difficult for the roots to come out. They seem to take a longer time to root and grow new leaves.
Fauzi root the majority of his cuttings in pure perlite and he has very low failure rate. He just place the cuttings under his shadehouse together with his extablished plants. I was surprise initially that the cuttings did not dry out.
I think to encourage faster rooting from stem cuttings, the media needs to dry out a little inbetween waterings. I think this encourages the roots to grow faster. Seem to be what happens to my cuttings. Perhaps the cutting "thinks" that it is gonna die because the media is drying out, so it quickly give out roots to reach for water. I have cuttings that were in pure sphagnum moss and always soggy. They take a long time to root and sometimes the cuttings die.
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Post by Robert on Oct 27, 2007 8:08:34 GMT 8
Hi David, there are many variable that affect the rate of rooting. Plant health, type of cuttings-basal,tip,mid or lower stem. The media used and our local conditions.
I found sphagnum moss the most suitable in most cases- sp.moss need not to be wet but only moist ( i squeezed the water out ,pot the cutting, and place under bright cool shade ). I check occassionally and water the media when the top dressing is dry.
I use water or perlite to root albormarginata and reinwardtiana only as i had high rate of failure using peat and sphagnum moss.
Cuttings using perlite produce more compact fine roots and i use this only to root smaller cuttings with good success rate.
I had 100% success if fresh cuttings were taken and potted immediately.
After many trial and error we will be able to adjust to the suitable method we used. My method may not work for everyone, but most important - the media must not be compact and wet.
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Post by David on Oct 27, 2007 21:33:48 GMT 8
Hmm, perhaps because I place my cuttings under grow lights and the temperature in the afternoon can get pretty hot during the hot dry season. That's why some ways does not work for me that well.
Yaa man! that is confirmed with my cuttings too... the media must not be compact and wet.
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Post by cindy on Oct 27, 2007 21:43:37 GMT 8
David, rooting in pure perlite is one very dependable method under lights. I do that all the time.
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Post by David on Oct 27, 2007 21:54:49 GMT 8
Perhaps I should try it and see. Thanks Cindy, for the tips.
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Post by fauzi on Oct 28, 2007 20:23:54 GMT 8
Hi, Just to add something base on my experience in doing cutting. Previously I use perlite as media for rooting of my cutting. It is best if you do it on a tray basis and not on an individual pot as perlite in an individual pot will tend to dry fast. You need to use a fresh perlite and not a recycle one as it will reduce the survival rate of your cutting. Note : if you use a tray method, do not used long fiber sphagnum moss as later when you want to tranfer them to an individual pot you will be having problem as all the root in the tray will be tangled up. Now I use purely shreaded sphagnum moss as my rooting agent in an individual pot for rooting. This will reduce the time taken to repotting if I use the tray method. Do not compact the pot with moss - just ensure that the cutting does not move. Now they can stay in the pot where they start rooting ( less disturbance to the root) Normally for the newly cut I will ensure that the first 3 weeks, the media are wet so that air will not penetrate inside the stem capillary. You can dilute a small amount of Root enhancing hormone (1/4 teaspoon in 4 liter of water) for watering purpose within the first 2 weeks. The plant will be left under shaded place within this time. After new shoot started to come out - 3 weeks, watering will be reduced as this is the time when the new root started to develope. To much water will suffocate the root and cutting may not survive. Currently I started to do tip cutting first and followed by another cutting when new shoot came out from the stem that was left after the first cutting. It seems that this method is faster in producing new shoot as the stem is getting water and nutrient from the existing roots. I have yet to try the grafting method. Maybe some of you would like to try growing rajah or lowii on an x ventrata stem. Below is the link for your reading and experimental pleasure.... You can copy paste the address. carnivore.ic.cz//index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=32Thanks
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funkychips
Full Member
Nep and Till fan
Posts: 173
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Post by funkychips on Oct 28, 2007 21:33:48 GMT 8
Appreciate your info Fauzi, as I intend to do some x ventrata and x miranda cuttings. Previously my attempt failed but I shall use your method to see if it works. Thanks again.
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Post by David on Oct 29, 2007 18:20:20 GMT 8
Thanks Fauzi
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