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Post by edmund83 on May 14, 2008 14:18:06 GMT 8
HElP help~~   hi guys my sarracenia looks not healthy. It looks thin and brownish on top. The stem is around 10cm height and there is new stem does come out from the root. Any suggestion? |
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Post by tarence on May 14, 2008 17:57:05 GMT 8
edmund, there is a new leaf coming out ? the plant itself looks to be in bad shape i`m afraid. what i would do is cut off all the die-ing or dried pitchers to lessen further loss of moisture, leave only the healthy leaves ( if any ). if the plant can make it ( meaning it is not going dormant or can recover from the damage/ stress ), then it will send out new pitchers. you can also wrap it up in clear plastic to keep humidity high. keep in bright area.
how was the plant when you got it ?
the problem with sarracenias in our weather is that a lot of them are dormancy prone. i have lost many precious & rare ones to our weather.
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Post by sunbelle on May 14, 2008 19:43:29 GMT 8
Do not bury the rhizome. Make sure the rhizome is sitting on top of the soil. The growth point should be visible. The mix looks a little sandy and rocky, but Sarracenia are not very picky. You might want to try a larger/deeper pot with more sphagnum peat and perlite. Just make sure the growth point is not buried under the mix. We have some photos and culture info, here's a link www.sunbelleexotics.com/Sunbelle/Culture_Sarrs_Grow.htmhalf way down the page you can see a healthy plant in dormancy, you can see the rhizome sitting on the soil (the rhizome actually turns red). Hope this helps. We would not wrap Sarracenia up in plastic, as this would cause rot to spread quickly. The humidity in their native habitat can vary from very low to very high, they are not that delicate (your natural humidity is good enough). Don't treat them too nice in "soft" conditions, put the plant out in a sunny spot with plenty of water. Sometimes it will take a year to recover and grow normally. |
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Post by tarence on May 15, 2008 13:22:10 GMT 8
Edmund, sunbelle is correct about the plastic bag. no wonder my sarracenias always rot.
I didn`t know that it took so long ( 1 year ) to recover, Sunbelle. what happens if it gets hit by winter in the midst of recovering ?
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Post by sunbelle on May 15, 2008 20:17:44 GMT 8
Sunbelle. what happens if it gets hit by winter in the midst of recovering ? The plant would probably rest some more during dormancy. Generally, they don't like being disturbed right before winter, but once they are dormant, it is the best time to divide and repot. Remember, they are not tropical. Sarracniea often "sit and do nothing" during the months when they're not producing pitchers. Depending on the species, for example, we may only see our best pitchers of our S. flava for a few months out of the year, but our S. rosea (or pupurea burkei) produces pitchers most of the year. We have almost a semi-dormancy during the summer months. Really, they look best in fall and spring. When the Sarrs are not producing pitchers, we like to think they're saving up energy to show off. We have noticed they will have better pitcher and flower production after a good restful dormancy. |
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Post by edmund83 on May 16, 2008 13:25:16 GMT 8
edmund, there is a new leaf coming out ? the plant itself looks to be in bad shape i`m afraid. what i would do is cut off all the die-ing or dried pitchers to lessen further loss of moisture, leave only the healthy leaves ( if any ). if the plant can make it ( meaning it is not going dormant or can recover from the damage/ stress ), then it will send out new pitchers. you can also wrap it up in clear plastic to keep humidity high. keep in bright area. how was the plant when you got it ? the problem with sarracenias in our weather is that a lot of them are dormancy prone. i have lost many precious & rare ones to our weather. hye tarence... i got it few month ago. before that i was thought maybe the plant need some time to comfort with the environment. But now seem they are getting week. |
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Post by edmund83 on May 16, 2008 13:33:28 GMT 8
Do not bury the rhizome. Make sure the rhizome is sitting on top of the soil. The growth point should be visible. The mix looks a little sandy and rocky, but Sarracenia are not very picky. You might want to try a larger/deeper pot with more sphagnum peat and perlite. Just make sure the growth point is not buried under the mix. We have some photos and culture info, here's a link www.sunbelleexotics.com/Sunbelle/Culture_Sarrs_Grow.htmhalf way down the page you can see a healthy plant in dormancy, you can see the rhizome sitting on the soil (the rhizome actually turns red). Hope this helps. We would not wrap Sarracenia up in plastic, as this would cause rot to spread quickly. The humidity in their native habitat can vary from very low to very high, they are not that delicate (your natural humidity is good enough). Don't treat them too nice in "soft" conditions, put the plant out in a sunny spot with plenty of water. Sometimes it will take a year to recover and grow normally. Sunbelle, so i just make sure the rhizome can be seen? i did mix with sand,spagnum moss, peat moss! Hopefully the plant will happy with that ... thank for the info ! thanks so much! |
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Post by caseyhoo on May 16, 2008 13:56:18 GMT 8
Do not bury the rhizome. Make sure the rhizome is sitting on top of the soil. The growth point should be visible. The mix looks a little sandy and rocky, but Sarracenia are not very picky. You might want to try a larger/deeper pot with more sphagnum peat and perlite. Just make sure the growth point is not buried under the mix. We have some photos and culture info, here's a link www.sunbelleexotics.com/Sunbelle/Culture_Sarrs_Grow.htmhalf way down the page you can see a healthy plant in dormancy, you can see the rhizome sitting on the soil (the rhizome actually turns red).Hope this helps. We would not wrap Sarracenia up in plastic, as this would cause rot to spread quickly. The humidity in their native habitat can vary from very low to very high, they are not that delicate (your natural humidity is good enough). Don't treat them too nice in "soft" conditions, put the plant out in a sunny spot with plenty of water. Sometimes it will take a year to recover and grow normally. hi sunbelle, you means sarra rhizome (growing point) will turn red when they are dormancy? The others sign of dormancy is pitcher dried out |
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Post by sunbelle on May 16, 2008 21:24:50 GMT 8
>hi sunbelle, you means sarra rhizome (growing point) will turn red when they are dormancy? The others sign of dormancy is pitcher dried out<
Often the dormant growth points will turn red, and "pucker". While dormant, the pitchers will dry up, and the plant will produce phyllodia-"winter leaves"., even though we will get phyllodia in the middle of summer when many Sarracenia take a mini-dormancy. This is mostly in oreophylla and its hybrids, but flava will do this too.
Sarracenia are prone to rhizome rot in cultivation, and by keeping the rhizome sitting on the surface of the potting media will expose it to light and air movement-helpful to prevent the fungal attacks. Also, remove dead tissue like old pitchers from the rhizome.
Edmund, your mix should be okay. We are using less sand and more perlite. If the sand is too dense it will contribute to rhizome rot. Ironically, in Sarracenia natural habitats we see them growing in almost pure compacted sand, but in cultivation that would be the kiss of death!
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